Hoi An Food Guide

Hoi An Food Guide

Cao lau, banh mi, white rose, and beyond — the definitive guide to eating in Vietnam's culinary gem

Hoi An is Vietnam's culinary jewel — a small town with an outsized food reputation built on dishes that exist nowhere else in the country. The unique cao lau noodles, made with water from a specific ancient well. The translucent white rose dumplings, produced by a single family using a secret recipe. The banh mi that Anthony Bourdain called the best in the world. The golden turmeric chicken rice that is Hoi An's everyday comfort food. This is a town where centuries of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, and European trading influences merged into a cuisine that is distinctly, uniquely Hoi An. From the predawn market stalls where locals queue for mi quang to the lantern-lit riverside restaurants serving elevated Vietnamese cuisine — this guide covers the essential dishes, the best areas to eat, the legendary stalls, and the tips you need to eat like a local.

8 Must-Try Hoi An Foods

These are the dishes that define Hoi An. You cannot leave the town without trying them.

🍜Must-Try

Cao Lau

The dish that defines Hoi An and exists nowhere else in Vietnam. Cao lau is a bowl of thick, chewy rice noodles (with a texture closer to Japanese udon than Vietnamese pho) topped with slices of char siu-style barbecued pork, fresh greens, bean sprouts, crispy croutons made from the same noodle dough, and a small amount of rich, savory broth. The legend says authentic cao lau noodles must be made with water from the Ba Le Well in the Ancient Town, and the lye used to give the noodles their distinctive yellow color and firm texture traditionally came from ashes of a specific tree on the Cham Islands. Whether the legends are entirely true, the result is unmistakable — a uniquely textured, deeply flavored dish that reflects Hoi An's history as a trading port where Japanese, Chinese, and Vietnamese culinary traditions merged. Cao lau is available at virtually every restaurant in the Ancient Town, but the best versions come from dedicated stalls that have been making it for decades.

Price30,000-50,000₫
Best at: Cao Lau Ba Be (Ancient Town), Central Market stalls, Trung Bac Restaurant
🥖Must-Try

Banh Mi

Hoi An makes a serious claim to the best banh mi in all of Vietnam — and the competition between the town's legendary vendors is fierce. The Hoi An version features a shorter, crustier baguette than the Saigon style, packed with a generous combination of pate, mayonnaise, grilled or cold-cut meats, pickled vegetables, fresh herbs, chili, and sometimes a fried egg. Madam Khanh, known as "The Banh Mi Queen," has been serving from her tiny shopfront on Tran Cao Van Street for decades, and the queue stretches down the block every morning. Banh Mi Phuong, made famous by Anthony Bourdain who declared it the best banh mi in the world, draws an equally devoted following. The beauty of Hoi An banh mi is that even the no-name carts on side streets produce exceptional sandwiches — the town's baking tradition and fresh ingredients elevate every version. At 15,000-30,000₫, a Hoi An banh mi may be the best meal-per-dollar ratio on the planet.

Price15,000-30,000₫
Best at: Madam Khanh (The Banh Mi Queen), Banh Mi Phuong, street carts throughout town
🥟Regional

White Rose (Banh Bao Banh Vac)

Translucent shrimp dumplings shaped like delicate white roses — a dish so unique to Hoi An that only one family in the entire town has the recipe. The Tran family has been making white rose dumplings for generations, and every restaurant in Hoi An that serves them buys from this single source. The dumpling wrapper is made from rice flour, pounded and stretched to near-translucent thinness, then filled with a mixture of fresh shrimp and spices, steamed, and topped with crispy fried shallots and a light dipping sauce. The texture is silky and ethereal, the shrimp filling is delicate and sweet, and the presentation — a plate of translucent white dumplings arranged like a bouquet — is beautiful. White rose is the kind of dish that makes you understand why Hoi An's food culture is considered one of Vietnam's finest.

Price30,000-50,000₫
Best at: White Rose Restaurant (Hai Ba Trung St), Morning Glory, most Ancient Town restaurants
🍚Must-Try

Com Ga (Hoi An Chicken Rice)

Hoi An's version of chicken rice is distinctive and delicious — turmeric-infused rice gives the dish its signature golden color, topped with shredded free-range chicken, fresh herbs (Vietnamese mint, basil, coriander), pickled papaya, and a plate of crispy rice crackers on the side. The chicken is tender and flavorful from being poached in aromatic broth, and the turmeric rice is fragrant and slightly sticky. The combination of textures — soft chicken, fluffy rice, crispy crackers, crunchy pickles — creates a satisfying meal that is simple yet perfectly balanced. Com ga Hoi An is different from the Hainanese chicken rice found elsewhere in Southeast Asia, with the turmeric and herb emphasis giving it a distinctly Vietnamese character. Every com ga shop has its own nuances, and locals have fierce opinions about which is best.

Price30,000-50,000₫
Best at: Com Ga Ba Buoi (Phan Chu Trinh St), Ba Nga, Ancient Town restaurants
🥗Must-Try

Mi Quang

The signature noodle dish of Quang Nam province (of which Hoi An is the heart), mi quang is a masterpiece of texture and flavor. Wide, flat turmeric-yellow rice noodles sit in a small amount of rich, concentrated broth (unlike the soup-heavy pho, mi quang is closer to a dressed noodle dish), topped with a combination of pork, shrimp, quail eggs, fresh herbs, roasted peanuts, rice crackers, and sometimes crispy wonton strips. The broth is intensely flavored — turmeric, shrimp paste, and pork bones create a depth that belies the apparently simple presentation. The toppings vary by stall and region, but the combination of chewy noodles, crunchy peanuts, crispy crackers, and rich broth remains constant. Mi quang is breakfast food in Hoi An, and the best stalls sell out by mid-morning.

Price30,000-50,000₫
Best at: Mi Quang Ong Hai (Ly Thai To St), Central Market, local breakfast stalls
🥟Regional

Hoanh Thanh (Wontons)

Hoi An's Chinese trading heritage shows most clearly in its wonton tradition. Hoanh thanh are available in two distinct styles: deep-fried crispy wontons topped with a tomato-based sauce, fresh herbs, and sometimes shrimp (a Hoi An original), and the more traditional wonton soup with pork-filled dumplings in a clear, delicate broth. The crispy version is the more distinctly Hoi An dish — the contrast between the shattering crunch of the fried wonton and the tangy, slightly sweet tomato sauce is addictive. Many restaurants serve both versions, and ordering one of each is the way to go. Like white rose and cao lau, Hoi An wontons reflect the town's unique position at the crossroads of Vietnamese and Chinese culinary traditions.

Price25,000-40,000₫
Best at: White Rose Restaurant, Morning Glory, Ancient Town restaurants
Traditional

Vietnamese Coffee (Ca Phe)

Vietnam is the world's second-largest coffee producer, and Hoi An's cafe culture is one of the town's great pleasures. The traditional ca phe sua da — strong, dark-roasted robusta coffee brewed through a metal phin filter into a glass of sweetened condensed milk, then poured over ice — is a ritual that demands patience and rewards with intensity. Hoi An's Ancient Town has dozens of atmospheric cafes, from tiny family-run shopfronts where elderly locals sit for hours over a single glass to stylish rooftop cafes with river views. The egg coffee (ca phe trung), originally from Hanoi but now popular nationwide, is a rich, custard-like experience. Several specialty coffee shops in Hoi An also serve high-quality Vietnamese arabica from the Central Highlands.

Price15,000-30,000₫
Best at: Reaching Out Tea House (silent cafe), Rosie's Cafe, The Espresso Station, any phin cafe
🍧Dessert

Che (Vietnamese Sweet Desserts)

Che is the catch-all term for Vietnamese sweet soups, puddings, and iced desserts that come in dozens of varieties. In Hoi An, the most popular versions include che bap (sweet corn pudding with coconut milk), che dau xanh (mung bean dessert), and che ba mau (three-color dessert with beans, jelly, and coconut milk over ice). The Ancient Town's che vendors display their offerings in large glass jars, and you can mix and match ingredients to create your own combination. Che is the perfect cool-down after walking the Ancient Town in the heat — mildly sweet, refreshing, and unlike any Western dessert tradition. The Central Market has some of the best and cheapest che in town.

Price15,000-30,000₫
Best at: Central Market vendors, Ancient Town street stalls, Cam Nam Island shops

5 Best Food Areas

These neighborhoods and markets are Hoi An's greatest food destinations.

Ancient Town Food Stalls

Within the UNESCO old quarter

The Ancient Town is the epicenter of Hoi An's food scene. The narrow streets are lined with restaurants ranging from tiny family-run stalls serving a single dish to multi-story establishments with extensive menus. The concentration of cao lau, white rose, and banh mi vendors here is the highest in the town, and the quality is generally excellent — competition keeps standards high. The restaurants along Tran Phu and Nguyen Thai Hoc are the most convenient, while the side streets and alleys hide some of the most authentic and affordable options. Evening dining in the Ancient Town, surrounded by lanterns and the buzz of the pedestrian streets, is one of Hoi An's defining experiences.

Must Try: Cao lau, white rose, hoanh thanh, banh mi from carts
Best Time: Lunch (11 AM-1 PM) for market stalls; dinner (6-9 PM) for atmosphere

Central Market (Cho Hoi An)

Riverside, Ancient Town

Hoi An's Central Market is the best place for authentic, no-frills Vietnamese breakfast and the freshest ingredients in town. The food stalls inside the market serve steaming bowls of cao lau, mi quang, bun bo, and banh mi at prices lower than the surrounding restaurants. The atmosphere is bustling and local — this is where Hoi An's residents come to eat, and the quality of the market stalls reflects their discerning palates. Beyond the food stalls, the market sells fresh seafood, vegetables, herbs, spices, and dried goods. The flower section is a photographer's paradise. Arrive before 8 AM for the best food and atmosphere.

Must Try: Market cao lau, mi quang, banh mi, fresh fruit, Vietnamese coffee
Best Time: Early morning (6:30-9 AM) for the best atmosphere and freshest food

An Bang Beach Restaurants

An Bang Beach, 4 km from Ancient Town

An Bang Beach has developed a dining scene that goes well beyond beach snacks. The beachfront restaurants serve excellent seafood — grilled whole fish, garlic prawns, crab in tamarind sauce — alongside Vietnamese classics and increasingly good international food. The casual atmosphere (sand floors, ocean views, cold beers) makes for some of the most enjoyable meals in the Hoi An area. Behind the beach, the back lanes have small Vietnamese restaurants serving home-style cooking at local prices. The combination of fresh seafood, beach setting, and low prices makes An Bang dining a highlight.

Must Try: Grilled seafood, garlic butter prawns, banh xeo, cold beer on the sand
Best Time: Lunch (noon-2 PM) for the full beach dining experience; sunset for atmosphere

Cam Nam Island

South bank of Thu Bon River, via bridge from Ancient Town

Cross the bridge from the Ancient Town to Cam Nam Island and you enter a more local, less touristy food world. The restaurants here cater primarily to Vietnamese diners, which means lower prices, larger portions, and dishes you will not find on the tourist-oriented menus across the river. The island is particularly known for its banh dap (crispy rice cracker topped with steamed rice sheet), local-style mi quang, and fresh river seafood. The riverside restaurants on the northern edge of the island offer views back across to the illuminated Ancient Town at night — the same view at a fraction of the price.

Must Try: Banh dap, mi quang, riverside seafood, local Vietnamese home cooking
Best Time: Dinner for riverside views of the Ancient Town; lunch for quiet local atmosphere

Night Market (Nguyen Hoang Street)

An Hoi peninsula, south bank of Thu Bon River

The An Hoi Night Market operates every evening from around 5 PM on Nguyen Hoang Street, across the river from the Ancient Town. The food section is the highlight — rows of stalls serving grilled meats, seafood skewers, banh mi, banh xeo (Vietnamese crepes), cao lau, fresh spring rolls, and sweet desserts at very reasonable prices. The atmosphere is lively and colorful, with lanterns strung overhead and the river visible at the end of the street. Beyond food, the market sells souvenirs, lanterns, clothing, and handicrafts. The night market is a natural extension of an evening walk through the Ancient Town — cross the An Hoi Bridge, eat, shop, and enjoy the views back across the river.

Must Try: Grilled meat skewers, banh xeo, fresh spring rolls, fruit smoothies
Best Time: Evening (6-9 PM); arrive early for the widest food selection

Legendary Food Stalls

The iconic establishments that have built Hoi An's food reputation — from the Banh Mi Queen to the market's legendary cao lau.

Madam Khanh (The Banh Mi Queen)

Est. Decades-old

115 Tran Cao Van, Ancient Town

The most famous banh mi in Hoi An and arguably the best in Vietnam. Madam Khanh has been making banh mi from her tiny shopfront for decades, and the queue that forms every morning is a testament to her consistency. The baguette is crispy and light, the pate is rich, the meats are flavorful, and the balance of pickled vegetables, fresh herbs, and chili is perfect. Each sandwich is assembled with the practiced precision of someone who has made hundreds of thousands of them. The shop is easy to miss — look for the "The Banh Mi Queen" banner and the queue of locals and tourists standing on the narrow sidewalk.

Must Try: The signature banh mi with everything — there is only one way to order

Cao Lau Ba Be

Est. Family recipe

Central Market, Ancient Town

Inside the Central Market, Ba Be's stall has been serving what many locals consider the definitive version of cao lau for generations. The noodles have the perfect chew, the pork is beautifully caramelized, the croutons are crispy, and the small amount of broth is deeply concentrated and savory. The stall is no-frills — a few plastic stools around a tiny counter — but the cao lau is exceptional. Arrive before 9 AM for the best experience, as the stall sells out and the market atmosphere is at its liveliest early in the morning.

Must Try: Cao lau (the only dish served) — order one bowl, then order another

Morning Glory Restaurant

Est. Est. by Ms. Vy

106 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ancient Town

While technically a full restaurant rather than a street stall, Morning Glory deserves its place on this list for its role in preserving and popularizing traditional Hoi An cuisine. Founded by the legendary Ms. Vy, Morning Glory serves the town's iconic dishes — cao lau, white rose, mi quang, hoanh thanh — alongside lesser-known regional specialties that most tourist restaurants do not attempt. The open kitchen lets you watch the cooks at work. The atmosphere is lively and the space is beautifully decorated with traditional Vietnamese elements. Morning Glory is where many visitors first taste Hoi An's signature dishes, and it sets a high benchmark.

Must Try: Cao lau, white rose, crispy wontons, morning glory with garlic

Bale Well

Est. Long-established

45/51 Tran Hung Dao, Ancient Town

A beloved local restaurant tucked down an alley off Tran Hung Dao Street, Bale Well serves one thing and serves it perfectly: barbecued pork wrapped in rice paper with fresh herbs. You sit at communal tables while the kitchen sends out plates of sizzling grilled pork, fresh rice paper, crispy rice crackers, green herbs, pickled vegetables, and dipping sauces. You assemble your own wraps — layering pork, herbs, and crackers into rice paper rolls and dipping them in the peanut-based sauce. The experience is interactive, social, and delicious. The set meal (around 120,000₫ per person) includes unlimited rice paper, herbs, and dipping sauces with a generous portion of grilled meat.

Must Try: The set meal — grilled pork with all the accompaniments (only option)

Fine Dining Picks

For a special evening, these restaurants showcase the best of Hoi An's cuisine with polish and creativity.

150,000-400,000₫ per person

Morning Glory Original

106 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ancient Town

Ms. Vy's flagship restaurant is the gold standard for elevated Hoi An cuisine. The menu is a comprehensive tour of central Vietnamese cooking, from the town's famous cao lau and white rose to lesser-known dishes from the Quang Nam region. The cooking classes offered here are among the best in Vietnam. The setting — a beautifully restored traditional building with open kitchen — matches the food. Morning Glory is not fine dining in the white-tablecloth sense, but it is the most accomplished restaurant in Hoi An for traditional cuisine served with polish and passion.

200,000-500,000₫ per person

Mango Mango

Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ancient Town

A sophisticated riverside restaurant in the Ancient Town serving Vietnamese and international dishes with a creative twist. The upstairs terrace offers views over the rooftops and the river — one of the most romantic dinner settings in Hoi An. The seafood dishes are excellent, the cocktail menu is well-crafted, and the presentation is a step above the typical Ancient Town restaurant. Mango Mango hits the sweet spot between casual Hoi An atmosphere and refined dining experience.

400,000-800,000₫ per person

The Field Restaurant

Outside Ancient Town (shuttle provided)

Set in a traditional Vietnamese house surrounded by rice paddies on the outskirts of town, The Field Restaurant offers a farm-to-table dining experience that is both beautiful and delicious. The multi-course set menus feature dishes made with ingredients grown in the surrounding gardens and fields. The setting — lantern-lit tables overlooking green paddies at sunset — is extraordinary. A shuttle from the Ancient Town is included. Reservations are essential. This is Hoi An's most unique dining experience and worth the premium for a special evening.

Eating Tips

Eat at the Central Market for Breakfast

The Central Market food stalls serve the most authentic and affordable breakfast in Hoi An. A bowl of cao lau or mi quang at a market stall costs 30,000-40,000₫ and is made by vendors who have been perfecting their recipe for decades. The atmosphere is buzzing and local. Arrive before 8 AM for the best selection and freshest food. The market is also the best place for Vietnamese coffee — order a ca phe sua da and watch the market come to life.

Try Every Signature Dish

Hoi An has more unique regional dishes than any town its size in Vietnam. Cao lau, white rose, com ga, banh mi, mi quang, and hoanh thanh are all distinct to Hoi An or the surrounding Quang Nam region. Most visitors can try all six signature dishes within 2-3 meals. Do not settle for trying just one — each dish represents a different facet of Hoi An's extraordinary culinary heritage.

Cross the River for Better Value

The restaurants in the Ancient Town charge a premium for atmosphere and convenience. Cross the Thu Bon River to Cam Nam Island or the An Hoi side, and prices drop by 30-50% for equivalent quality. The Cam Nam Island restaurants, in particular, serve authentic Hoi An food at genuinely local prices, with the bonus of river views looking back at the illuminated old town.

Take a Cooking Class

Hoi An is one of the best places in the world to take a cooking class. Schools like Morning Glory, Red Bridge, and Tra Que Garden offer half-day classes that include a market visit, hands-on cooking of 4-5 Hoi An dishes, and a meal. Prices range from 600,000-900,000₫ per person. The classes are a highlight for many visitors and give you recipes to recreate at home.

Night Market for Casual Dining

The An Hoi Night Market on Nguyen Hoang Street is the best spot for casual, affordable evening eating. The food stalls serve grilled meats, seafood, banh mi, spring rolls, and sweet desserts at lower prices than the sit-down restaurants. Combine a night market meal with a walk through the lantern-lit Ancient Town for the quintessential Hoi An evening.

Water and Ice Are Safe

Tap water in Hoi An is not safe to drink — use bottled or filtered water. However, ice in restaurants and food stalls is commercially produced from purified water and is safe. The cylindrical ice pieces with holes in the center are factory-made and safe everywhere. Carrying a refillable water bottle and buying large water bottles (10,000₫ for 1.5L) from convenience stores saves money and plastic.

Hungry for More?

Combine your food exploration with the best of Hoi An. Our itineraries include the top food stops alongside heritage walks, beach days, and day trips.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you try only three things: 1) Cao lau — the unique Hoi An noodle dish that exists nowhere else, with chewy noodles, barbecued pork, and crispy croutons. 2) Banh mi — Hoi An's banh mi is arguably the best in Vietnam, and Madam Khanh and Banh Mi Phuong are the legendary benchmarks. 3) White rose dumplings — translucent shrimp dumplings made by a single family in Hoi An. For a fourth, try com ga (Hoi An chicken rice with turmeric) at Com Ga Ba Buoi.
Hoi An is remarkably affordable. Street food and market meals cost 20,000-50,000₫ per dish. A banh mi costs 15,000-30,000₫. A bowl of cao lau at a local stall runs 30,000-50,000₫. Mid-range restaurant meals cost 80,000-200,000₫ per person. Fine dining runs 200,000-800,000₫ per person. You can eat exceptionally well on 200,000-300,000₫ per day eating at markets and street stalls, or 400,000-700,000₫ per day mixing street food with restaurant meals.
Yes, Hoi An street food is generally safe. The high turnover at popular stalls means food is constantly prepared fresh. Follow three rules: 1) Eat where locals eat — crowds mean fresh food and proven quality. 2) Choose food cooked to order rather than sitting pre-made. 3) Look for basic hygiene — fresh ingredients visible and cooking area reasonably clean. The Central Market food stalls are particularly safe due to the high volume and rapid turnover.
The two legendary rivals are Madam Khanh (The Banh Mi Queen) at 115 Tran Cao Van and Banh Mi Phuong at 2B Phan Chu Trinh. Madam Khanh's is richer with more pate and a slightly chewier bread. Banh Mi Phuong is crispier with a lighter filling and was famously endorsed by Anthony Bourdain. Both are exceptional — try both and decide for yourself. The queue at either is a sign of quality, not inconvenience.
Yes, Hoi An is one of Vietnam's most vegetarian-friendly towns. The Buddhist vegetarian tradition means many restaurants offer com chay (vegetarian rice plates) and meat-free versions of local dishes. Morning Glory and other upscale restaurants have dedicated vegetarian menus. The cooking classes can be adapted for vegetarians. Fresh spring rolls, vegetable stir-fries, and tofu dishes are widely available. The phrase "toi an chay" (I eat vegetarian) is widely understood.

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